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March 10, 2017

My Very First Shirt: Butterick B5526

高校の家庭科の授業でパジャマを作った気がする。被服科の子たちは浴衣を作ってたけど、浴衣のほうが絶対簡単だと思う。直線縫いだけだで。和裁を下に見るとかそういうわけじゃないけど、着物はとにかく長方形でできてて、布も細長いから扱いやすいし、体にフィットするように作るわけじゃないから。裁縫で難しいのは縫うこと自体ではなく、布の準備をしたり、体の凹凸にフィットするようにサイズを調節することだから。同じ理由で男性用の服は女性用の服より簡単だと思う(凹凸が少ないから)。

初めて、襟と袖のある、まっとうなボタンダウンシャツが出来上がりました。
ちょっと見にはわからない失敗がちらほらあるけど、全然着られる。全然これ着て外出られる。
布がちょっと厚いのが難点だけど(ディアンドルにはちょうどよかった)シャツは思ったより難しくなかった。


My very first shirt is completed. There are some not-so-perfect parts but I am very happy with the shirt and it is totally wearable.

The pattern is Butterick B5526. I made a princess seam shirt, with full length sleeves instead of the 3/4 sleeve.



I cut a size 10, then added 1/4" on all the seams at waist (total of 3").
I also shorten the bodice by 1".
(Please ignore the chalk lines still on the shirt)


I put in the sleeves flat, then basted the underarm seam & side seams to see the fit. Sleeves were pretty puffy and the shirt was loose thanks to my 3" addition, so I ended up taking in 5/8" (per side) at the side and underarm seams, tapering at the sleeve so keep the sleeve/cuff seam the same length.


The buttons are from my "stash" that came from my old RTW shirt that I thew out years ago. I did not have enough buttons to  match the cuffs so those are buttons from different shirt, and they are blue.

The cuffs are narrower than the pattern because I realized that the sleeves were too long.


The fabric is a cotton shirting left-over from my dirndl. The dirndl photos show the navy blue more accurately. It is pretty thick and has no drape, which was perfect for dirndl but not so for a shirt. But it pressed and behaved well during construction. Now I know why some people prefer sewing woven. It was fun to sew a stable fabric.

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